HSCA isn't just for cats and dogs! We also have birds and "smalls"--such as guinea pigs and rabbits. Our goal is to place animals in loving and caring homes in an as timely a manner as possible. As a result, the animals you see on this site may already have been adopted when you come to visit our shelters. But don't be discouraged, as each day AHS has many animals available for adoption.

There are many considerations when choosing a training program. First and foremost, training your dog should be positive and fun. A motivational lure and reward method should be the primary technique used by any program you choose. Although there?s plenty of hard work involved, training your dog should be a pleasant experience for both of you. Getting the whole family involved is also very important.

We understand that the time and money involved in a training program is a serious commitment, but the benefits will last a lifetime. By initially taking the time to teach your dog acceptable behavior, some basic commands, and good socialization skills, you are providing your dog with the tools to succeed in life and as a welcome member of your family. Being able to effectively communicate with your dog will not only enhance your relationship, but it may also bestow privileges on your pet, which they may otherwise not enjoy. Well-socialized, well-behaved dogs are more likely to be welcomed in other places and are wonderful traveling companions.

We hope you will take the time to socialize and train your dog to not only be your "best friend", but also be a good neighbor and citizen. As a dog owner, you?re an ambassador of the rewards of responsible dog ownership to your friends, neighbors and community.

Train with a dual approach: encourage the cat to claw the right things, discourage it from clawing the wrong things. Each time you bring the cat to the scratching post or it goes to the post on its own, praise it, pet it, and spend a minute playing at the post. If the cat begins to scratch where scratching isn?t appropriate, call the cat by name, firmly say, "No," and move the cat to the scratching post. Put its front legs up on the post and make scratching motions with them. Or keep a spray bottle filled with plain water handy and squirt the cat's back when it claws the furnishings. An inappropriate scratching area can be made less attractive by attaching tape that is sticky on both sides, or a piece of cotton scented with bath oil, to the area.

Cutting nails regularly can help keep a cat from scratching furnishings, or at least reduce the damage from scratching. Get your kitten used to having its feet handled and its nails trimmed while still young. With an older cat, it may help to begin by handling the cat?s feet under pleasurable circumstances. Then introduce the clipping procedure by approaching the cat while it's relaxed--or even napping--and clip only one nail per session. Praise your cat while you clip the nail, then reward with a treat.

If you?re in doubt regarding proper nail length, watch your veterinarian trim the nails. The only equipment necessary is a good pair of nail clippers. Never use scissors, since they can tear the nail.

Slide the blade onto the nail you will be trimming. Before cutting, look for the pink "quick" that runs down the center of the nail. The clipper blade should be placed about an eight of an inch forward of the quick, and the nail clipped with one smooth squeezing action of the clippers.

Be extremely careful not to cut into the quick. If this happens, the cat will experience pain, and bleeding is likely. The bleeding may stop without assistance, or you may need to hold a soft cloth on the nail or apply a little styptic powder. If you trim a small amount of nail every couple of weeks, the quick will tend to recede.

Domestic rats are both clean and friendly. They like being held and petted, and climbing up your arms and shoulders.

Rats require a good size cage in which to climb and explore. A multi-level wire cage would be ideal, providing plenty of ventilation and a clear view of the world outside the cage. You will want to place cardboard strips or paper towels on the cage ramps to ensure that the rat won't get its legs caught in the wiring. And do make sure to pad the ramps with something removable, in case the padding gets dirty.

Rats enjoy nesting while they sleep, so provide a variety of textures for them to nest in. Hay, shredded paper, tissues, paper towels, cotton balls, and ripped up pieces of cloth will be appreciated. Rats also like cozy hideaways. Here's a good way to recycle empty oatmeal containers, shoeboxes, empty tissue containers, and wicker baskets (but not treated with dyes, glues, or chemicals). Cardboard tubes and empty cracker boxes also make great hidey-holes.

Rats are natural-born tight rope walkers. A piece of rope across the top of the cage will give your rat a chance to show off this skill. But don't offer any rat a hamster's exercise wheel, as a rat's tail can get caught in the wheel and be injured. The best way to set up your rat?s cage is to layer the cage bottom with newspaper, then add the nesting materials and amenities.

Rats don't require inoculations from the vet, and the best way to keep them healthy is to keep their cage clean. Feed your little mammal friend "rat blocks," found in most pet supply stores. The rat block provides 100% nutrition with every bite the rat takes. This is important, as rats who are offered a smorgasbord of dried fruit mix, or nuts or grains, will pick and choose--and won't get a balanced diet. But do offer fresh fruits and vegetables to your rat, to supplement his diet of rat blocks. Some good treats are: tomatoes, strawberries, apples (no seeds, they contain arsenic), bananas, romaine lettuce, papaya, mango, kiwi fruit, pineapple, raisins, grapes, carrots, and coarse-cut oatmeal. Timothy hay is also important for your rat. Timothy hay keeps a rat?s digestive system working smoothly, as well as the rest of its body. Make sure that you have plenty of timothy hay available at all times for your rat. Your rat will also appreciate the hay as a bedding material.

If you are thinking of providing a loving home for a bird, you'll want the biggest bird cage your home can accommodate. Your bird should be able to sit on the perch with its wings extended and not touching the sides of the cage. Round cages are the least desirable. Horizontal bars are needed for your bird to be able to climb around its cage. Vertical bars tend to make the bird slide down or slip and fall. This can cause serious injury to the bird. Perches should be the appropriate size for your bird's feet to cling to. Of great importance is to clean the cage daily, and perches should be cleaned as needed.

A proper diet is extremely important.

Although many stores sell bird seed mixtures, the best diet for your bird could be pellets. When feeding pellets, other vitamin supplements aren't necessary. Sunflower seeds hold little or no nutritional value for the bird. Birds love the seeds, but it's like giving candy to a child at every meal. Fruits and vegetables are also great for your bird.

Water should be changed twice a day--especially if the bird is messy. Your bird should have a bath at least once a week. This can be accomplished by several methods. A fine mist spray bottle will work. So will a bowl of water (room temperature) large enough for your bird to stand in. Or, you can take your bird into the shower with you. There are special perches just for this! As for finding a veterinarian for your bird, do this before you NEED a vet!

Your bird will need its wings, nails, and beak trimmed. To prevent injuries, trimming should be done by a professional groomer who works with birds. Spending time with you is very important. Visit the shelter to learn more about caring for cockatiels and other birds.

Mission:

Every day we work toward our mission of "Engage the hearts, hands and minds of the community to help animals" with all of our programs and services. We continue to educate the public about the responsibility and the lifelong commitment needed to care for a companion animal.

Funding:

Our organization is an independent, donor-supported, non-profit corporation that is not part of any governmental agency or national humane organization. We rely on the generous support of individuals, corporations, and foundations to help us provide our services. Eighty-two cents of every dollar donated goes directly to support our animal programs.

Our St. Paul shelter is located at 1115 Beulah Lane in St. Paul, one block west of Lexington Parkway and Jessamine Avenue, just north of Bandana Square and just south of Como Park. Take I-94 to Lexington Parkway (west of downtown St. Paul). Head north on Lexington for approximately 2.5 miles. Pass Energy Park Drive (Bandana Square), and turn left on Jessamine just after the railroad bridge. Make the first right at the four-way stop onto Beulah Lane. We are the second building on Beulah. You can reach the shelter by calling 651-645-7387 or e-mailing SP-adopt1@animalhumanesociety.org.

Our Woodbury shelter is located at 9785 Hudson Road in Woodbury, about seven miles east of St. Paul, just off exit 251 on I-94. Take I-94 to Woodbury Drive/Hwy 19. Head south at the ramp and turn onto Hudson Road at the first light. We are the first building on the south side of the street, across from the Holiday Inn Express. You can reach the shelter by calling 651-730-6008 or emailing WB-adopt1@animalhumanesociety.org.